Soul Searching and House Hunting in Costa Rica

We've spent the past few months searching for a new place to live. We love our current apartment, but it falls short on a few things. It's relatively small (500 sq ft), and it can feel very cozy with the three of us living, working, and playing in the same space. Also, as I look ahead to the coming months and years, Matty will start crawling and walking. Our current setup isn't exactly child-friendly, and I'd really like for him to have some green space to play in. (Unfortunately, there aren't any decent parks nearby, so if you don't have your own yard, outdoor play space can be hard to come by.) Finally, after spending some vacation time at the beach, we've realized just how hectic, noisy, and busy our current neighborhood is. It hard to go out for a relaxing stroll when you're dodging crazy motorists, pot holes, and other hazards.

We have looked at dozens of houses and apartments in the Central Valley, but, so far, all of them have fallen short. Some have very nice furnishings and ample space, but no yard. Others have a great yard,  but a less-than-ideal landlord. We've also limited our search to furnished apartments, which seemingly cuts out 80% of the rental market. Unfurnished rentals aren't an option for us right now because they don't include any appliances. In other words, we'd have to buy a stove, fridge, washing machine, etc., in addition to beds, chairs, plates, towels, lamps, and everything else (you know, all of the stuff that we just sold back in the States!)

In Costa Rica, an unfurnished apartment means BYO stove and fridge.

We recently discovered a really cute beach town in Guanacaste with plenty of rentals in our price range. But, after a little research, I was heartbroken to learn that they don't have full-service hospitals in Liberia. There are a few private medical clinics and a 24-hour public hospital, but if you need major emergency care, you'll be flown to San Jose.

Of course, you can always make the 4-5 hour drive from Guanacaste to San Jose and pray that you don't get stuck behind this guy!

After struggling with this information for a few days and doing a little soul-searching, I've realized that I'm not the kind of person who's willing to take a chance on emergency medical care. It's the same reason why I carry insurance: even though it's unlikely that I'll need this service, I still want to have it because the results can be catastrophic. Financial devastation is one thing, but when it comes to risking our health, I can't accept that.

Medical care is something that I took for granted when I lived in a first-world country. I never worried whether or not there'd be a hospital closeby to treat me if I were in a bad car accident. But the reality is that, in the developing world, you have to seek out resources and services, as it's not a given that they'll be widely available.

I guess this means that we'll be staying in the Central Valley for a while, as it's the only area of Costa Rica with higher-level medical care. At least we can enjoy our vacations at the beach!

Our New Apartment in Escazu, Costa Rica

Ahhhhh, home sweet home... or at least our home for now. Jim and I are happy to report that we've found a wonderful apartment here in Costa Rica!

We're living in Escazu, an affluent suburb just west of the capital San Jose. We chose this neighborhood for several reasons, not the least of which is its proximity to Hospital CIMA (where I plan to deliver our son) and my new OB/GYN. It's also a very convenient place to live, as every amenity we could ever need is located within a few miles. We can even walk to several banks, cafes, and grocery stores.

Panoramic view of Escazu

To me, the only real drawback to living in Escazu is that it's Gringo Central. The area is a haven for wealthy American retirees as well as medical tourists. Now, as a gringa, I of course have nothing against my fellow norteamericanos. But the sheer number of expats living here has left an indelible mark on the neighborhood, raising the cost of living and clearly influencing local commerce. What do I mean by that? Well, if you look down the main boulevard, you'll find a McDonald's  KFC, Pizza Hut, Quiznos, TGIFridays, Tony Roma's, and Mrs. Fields. There's also an Office Depot, Starbucks, and Walmart nearby, as well as the Multiplaza shopping mall with Lacoste, Oscar de la Renta, and Calvin Klein. Not exactly an authentic Tico experience.

In the end, we decided that the higher prices were worth the convenience, especially now that I am 8 months pregnant. We also felt very safe and secure in this neighborhood.

So, on to the details on our new apartment! We are living in a furnished 1-bedroom condo in San Rafael de Escazu. It has a covered parking spot and is part of a gated complex with 8 units. We're on the top floor and have a nice view of the neighborhood streets as well as the local mountains in the distance.

Our favorite feature is the patio-turned-living-room, which is a big, bright, open space. The north side of the room is all windows, letting in tons of light and a wonderful afternoon breeze. It's like sitting outside, but with a couch and flat-screen TV!

The kitchen is also great too. It's relatively small, but well-appointed with an American-sized fridge, gas stove, microwave, and drip coffee machine.

We also have a cozy bedroom with a wall of floor-to-ceiling storage space.

The apartment is less than 550 sq ft, but feels very spacious and open thanks to its high ceilings and many windows. It's just big enough for us... and hopefully a baby too!

While we don't have a guest room, we are happy to offer you a spot on the living room couch (which is actually a sofa bed) if you'd like to come visit us here in Costa Rica!

Apartment Hunting in Zadar

Since we'll be staying in Croatia for about a month, we decided to rent an apartment rather than stay at a hotel. We weren't too picky about the details; our only criteria were:

• close to a bus stop
• an internet connection -- vital to our new life as digital nomads!

We were hoping to find something in or around Zadar since it offers plenty of options for day trips, including islands, national parks, and beaches.

We did some research before we arrived to get an idea of the going rate for apartments. Based on what we'd read from Ken at 2 Bags and a Pack, it seemed like 300-400 Euros per month ($388-$520/month) would be a reasonable starting point.

Armed with a little knowledge, the hunt was on.

Our first stop was a local tourist agency. Our guidebook recommended them as a resource for local listings. We explained our criteria to the agent, he ran off into the back room to make some calls, and quickly came back with an option.

"It's very difficult to get an apartment with an internet connection," the agent explained, "but we have found one that is available in a very nice part of town."
"Can you give us an idea of the price?" Jim asked.
"Only 35 Euros per night!" the agent responded.
[Natalie nearly faints.]
"Uhm, that's a little more than we were expecting. Can you do the monthly calculation for us?" Jim asked calmly.
[Agent starts pressing buttons furiously on the calculator.]
"Well, it's 1,050 Euros per month ($1360/month), but I can give you a 10% discount..."
"No thank you, that's much more than we were expecting."

The agent proceeded to reassure us that we'd be back once we realized what a great deal we were passing up.

Later, back at the hostel

We decided to seek the assistance of our hostel's receptionist. She said to give her a few minutes and she'd make some calls.

About 20 minutes later, we were presented with a sticky note with a name, address, and a price. The rate? Only 400 Euros per month. Now that's what I'm talking about! So we beat feet and headed out to meet the owner.

To our pleasant surprise, the apartment was wonderful. Even more delightful was the owner, Darko, who kindly invited us up to his flat for some cappuccino, wild asparagus salad, and wine. We were thrilled! What a fantastic find!

Marveling at our amazingly good luck, we took a nice, leisurely stroll along the waterfront back to our hostel. Here's a few pics that we snapped along the way.

Sunny skies and smiles all around!

We present to you the Adriatic!

A view of Old Town Zadar.

So what's the lesson learned from today's apartment hunt? Ditch the guidebook and ask a local for advice instead!